COCKATIELS | www.talkingparrot.org

Would you like to print a copy of this book to read offline?

Click Here to download the printable PDF version

PARROT HOME

INTRODUCTION

01.
TAMING
02. BIRDS TO TALK
03. BREEDIN
04. FEEDING OF PARROTS
05. PARROTS
06. HILL MYNAHS
07. LORIKEETS
08. LORIQUETS
09. LORILETS
10. AFRICAN LOVE BIRDS
11. PIGMY PARROT
12. MAGPIES
13. COCKATOOS
14. COCKATIELS
15. MACAWS
16. SHELL PARRAKEETS
17. LARGER PARRAKEETS
18. HAWK-HEADED CAIQUES
19. CAIQUES
20. PARROT LETS
21. BROTOGERYS
22. CROW FAMILY
23. EUROPEAN STARLING
24. HEALTH PROBLEMS
25. REGULATIONS

RESOURCES

ADD URL
CONTACT US
PRIVACY POLICY

PARROT SITEMAP


Chapter 14 - COCKATIELS

The other native name for this bird of the Cockatoo fam­ily is the "Quarrion." It is the only one of its genus, and aviculturists say that it is the connecting link between Par­rots and Cockatoos. It was first discovered in 1788. Habitat: Throughout Australia. Size of a Dove 12% to 13 inches. Scientific name (Leptolophus hollandicus). The average fan­cier may not know it, but there are several races of this well-known bird differing in minor details of coloration. They are fairly safe to keep with smaller birds, unless kept with them in too small a cage.

Tamed and hand-raised Cockatiels have been taught to talk although not comparing to the larger talking birds. Be­ing a small bird, their voice is high-pitched and hard to under­stand. They have a natural musical whistle, and if you want to train them to talk, start when just out of the nest.

DESCRIPTION

These are grey birds with yellow face and crest. A large white patch is on each wing. The ear coverts are orange. To tell the sexes apart, the under coloration of the hen's tail feathers remains barred throughout life. In the mature cock, the top of the head, face, throat, and cheeks are yellow, and the crest feathers a lighter yellow at the base. The face and throat of the hen remains grey, while the orange ear coverts are duller than the cock's. Her crest is also shorter and white wing patch smaller. Both sexes may elevate or lower the crest at will.

FEEDING

The staple diet for Cockatiels consists of a mixture of Ca­nary Seed, Large Millet, Hulled Oats, and Sunflower Seed. These birds require greens, especially when feeding young. Lettuce, chickweed, dandelion, etc. may be fed. If you are in the country and don't have a grass or clover patch grow­ing in the aviary, give them a piece of turf often. If your birds are in the city, they can do without it. A piece of cuttle-bone, fresh water, bird gravel and — when moulting or nest­ing — ground oystershell, should be in their enclosure at all times. You could also hang up a millet spray and they like a drink of milk.

Feed concentrate powders, as previously mentioned for other birds, may be supplied on a half slice of whole wheat bread soaked in milk, especially when rearing young.

BREEDING

An enclosure 12 to 15 feet long x 6 feet high x 6 feet wide should be used. Five feet of this should consist of a shelter with solid roof and sides; the rest an open flight. Under the heading of Breeding and Housing in the Parrot section you will find specifications for building and mouse-proofing a pen this size.

In the wild, the Cockatiel nests in hollow limbs of dead trees.

NEST   BOX

Use plywood in making an oblong nest box 16 inches long x 8 inches high x 6 inches wide. A 1% inch thick block of wood should be scooped out making a concave hollow % inch deep and 6 inches wide, to prevent the eggs rolling around and getting chilled. Put insecticide powder on the nest bot­tom, then place this block over it, with the concave section in the rear. If the back of the nest box is screwed or nailed to this block, it may be pulled out like a drawer for clean­ing and inspection. A thin layer of sawdust or peatmoss may be placed in the hollow to cradle the eggs and absorb drop­pings. A six inch alighting perch should be placed just below the 3 inch diameter entrance hole, which should be near the top. The nest box may be attached to the roof or to an up­right post. Another type of nest box would be a log split or sawed in half, hollowed out to large enough dimensions, with 3-inch entrance hole at top, alighting perch, and bottom made concave with a gouge. This could be hinged together in the rear, and, a hook and eye would fasten the front.

Both adult birds of a pair should be over one year old to breed from. Cocks are suitable for breeding from 6 to 8 years, the hens less than that. One pair only should be in an en­closure if being bred. When not breeding, more may be kept together in an aviary. They lay from 5 to 8 eggs, which are laid and hatched in rotation, requiring 20 days incubation. The cock relieves the hen by day during the incubation. The parents are good feeders and usually rear the whole brood. The young are strange-looking, with silky yellow down. They hiss and rock sideways when being fed. Two or three broods at the most should be permitted, to maintain the vigor of the parents.

Young cocks may be distinguished from the hens when a few weeks old by their having more yellow on the face, or if youngsters having a paler face before the yellow feathers appear. The nestlings have shorter crests than the adults, although the cocks' crests are better developed, and they are also noisier than hens.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here….

COPYRIGHT (C) 2006 WWW.TALKINGPARROT.ORG