Chapter 24 - DISEASES AND HEALTH PROBLEMS

The best way of controlling disease is by keeping your bird cages and bird premises clean at all times, free of damp­ness, out of strong winds or drafts, and where the sun can reach in part of the day. A proper diet combining all essential vitamins and minerals maintains vitality, hardiness and longevity. Feed dishes and especially water receptacles should have any sliminess or dirt scoured out daily with hot water and washing soda. For soft food or nectar feeders, make a fresh supply every day and don't place the food dish in the sun where it will sour or dry out.

Newly purchased birds added to your collection should be quarantined for 3-4 weeks before introducing in your stock.

MAKE A HOSPITAL CAGE

If your bird is ill in any way, before giving it any other remedy, the best treatment for it is heat at 85 to 90 degrees, maintained day and especially at night, till your bird is bright-eyed and active again. To accomplish this, you will have to make or buy a hospital cage. This is nothing more than a wooden box large enough for the bird, and lined on the inside with 1/2 inch asbestos board all around. A six-foot electric cord is required, together with an electric light bulb connection installed at one end of the box.

At the opposite end put in a thermometer that will be visible from the out­side through a glass window installed in the wall next to it. This window will permit observation of the bird also.

The only ventilation will come through half-inch holes (about 8), which you will drill in the top of the box at the opposite half, away from the light connection. The electric bulb (about 100 Watts or more if necessary), will supply the required heat to maintain 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit inside the box when the outside room temperature is at 60 to 65 degrees. It is better to put in a stronger light bulb than nec­essary rather than a weaker one. This treatment is worthless if less than 85 degrees is maintained. If the temperature in the hospital cage goes up too much above 90 degrees, it may be controlled if you have put in a "Dim-a-Light" connection in the bulb when inserted. This connection permits you to decrease the temperature by hand by reducing the voltage in the bulb, or to increase it.

The bright glare of the bulb should be eliminated by your placing it at the bottom end of the box as heat rises. Attach a piece of sheet metal or asbestos two inches away from the bulb. It is advisable also to place a section of 1/2inch wire netting around the bulb if the bird you put in the cage is wild or nervous.

The above manner of maintaining heat is used by most fanciers, although they don't use the "Dim-a-Light" connec­tion, just the bulb alone. A much better method of controll­ing heat in an asbestos lined box is by placing a short lead-covered heating cable with a thermostat, which you may set to automatically maintain the temperature you desire, 85-90°. Cover the cable with an inch of sand. A sick bird will benefit more this way by being directly over the heat. If too ill, it may lay right on the warm sand. Long heating cables are used in greenhouses and coldframes. You would require a smaller one, for which consult your poultry appliance dealer or hard­ware store.

Perches in the hospital cage should be low, only two inches from the bottom.

Whichever heating system you install, your hospital cage will require a one-inch-high sheet metal pan which may be slid in and out for cleaning.

The main treatment your bird will need is first heat 85-90°, secondly quiet, rest and clean quarters. This is the first adjunct to treating any ills.

BROKEN   LEG

A broken or factured leg requires three or four weeks to heal. In a small bird the leg may be set with a large enough quill split on one side. With a pair of tweezers, put a few shreds of cotton inside the quill as padding. A small piece of Scotch tape will hold it firmly. If you are all thumbs, cut the quill in half and do the job the same way.

After much experimentation, I've found out that Scotch tape makes the best binder for bandages and splints. It is almost invisible to the bird, not attracting its attention, and is so thin, binding so closely, that a fussy bird cannot pick it off as it would adhesive tape, thread or string. Be careful not to get the Scotch tape wet, however, when you wish to remove it, dip a piece of cotton in alcohol, applying it as you unwind it.
It is rare that the larger Parrots or Cockatoos break a leg. If one does, a splint may be made of sheet metal cut and bent to fit around the leg without cutting off circulation. A plastic splint may be made if you first soften the plastic in boiling water or by placing it in an oven. When heated it is pliable. If you are inexperienced, it is much more advisable to bring your valuable Parrot to a veterinarian who will do a skilled setting of the leg or wing. Treating a large Psitta-cine will be a three-man job to hold it, unless skillfully anesthetized. When the leg is set in a splint remove all perches for three weeks.

BROKEN   WINGS

A broken wing sometimes heals itself properly without treatment, if it just droops normally. If it hangs at an awk­ward angle, fold it against the bird's side and hold it in place by placing a strip of Scotch tape twice around the body, leaving the other wing free. Scotch tape may be re­moved easily with a piece of cotton dipped in alcohol.

LICE   AND   MITES

If you followed the advice given in the first part of this book by giving your bird a monthly once-over, and dusting insect powder close to the body, it will never have lice. A five per cent D. D. T. powder is safe, but don't leave a resi­due on top of the feathers.

Perch ends, cage, and aviary cor­ners should be cleaned every week or two with hot water and a disinfectant or else touch these up with a brush dipped in kerosene or creosote, removing the birds till dry.

For scaly-leg mites which are noticeable when your bird's legs and feet have rough-looking growth scales on them, apply either olive oil or mineral oil on the affected parts for three days. The old scales will loosen off and the mites will be killed by the oil. Psittacine Birds are rarely affected with scaly-leg mite as they clamber about a good deal. Passerine Birds such as Canaries, Thrushes, etc., have legs more susceptible to attack by this mite.

PSITTACOSIS OR ORNITHOSIS

A tiny lymphogranuloma or rickettsia virus causes this specific pneumonitis among all birds, and was first discovered among newly imported Parrots. When it occurs in birds out­side of the Parrot Family as in Chickens or Pigeons it is known as Ornithosis.

The symptoms in birds are fever, thirst, fast breathing and brownish droppings which may turn green or bloody just before death. The bird eventually becomes emaciated and weak. This disease requires treatment by a veterinarian, be­cause the new drugs now available to treat it require a prescription.

Because of the harmful publicity given this disease, countries like the United States and England have regula­tions limiting the importation of Psittacine Birds.

CHLOROMYCETIN: This other new antibiotic, announc­ed in 1949, has been isolated and experimented with by the Army Medical Center, Washington, D. C.

I. D. Fagin and J. N. Vanderberg, published a paper, "Psittacosis Treated with Penicillin and Chloromycetin," in the Journal of the Michigan Medical Society (49:182, 1950). These men reported a full recovery of a patient with psit­tacosis after instituting Chloromycetin treatment.

PENICILLIN: The infectious agent which causes psit­tacosis originally was considered a virus, but recently has been classified among the Rickettsia. Neither the Rickettsia nor the viruses respond to penicillin, and this drug has not proved effective for the treatment of psittacosis.

TERRAMYCIN (Pfizer) There is reason to suppose that this drug will also control this infection.

AUREOMYCIN: This antibiotic is the effective human treatment against psittacosis. It was discovered and has been under constant tests since 1947 by a research group at Lederle Laboratories. The medical references published on investi-gational work using Aureomycin in relation to psittacosis are:

Manire, G. P. and Meyer, K. F.: The Toxins of the Psit-tacosis-Lymphogranuloma Group of Agents: II. Effect of Aureomycin and Penicillin upon the Toxins of Psittacosis Viruses. J. Infect. Dis. 86; 233 (May-June) 1950.

Wagner, J. C: Aureomycin Studies. I. Effect of Aureo­mycin on Ten Strains of Virus in the Psittacosis-LGV Group. (Abstract) J. Clin. Investigation 28: 1049 (Sept.) 1949.

Wells, E. B. and Finland, M.: Comparative Effect of Aureomycin and Chloramphenicol on Psittacosis Infection in Chick Embryos. Proc. Soc. Exper. Biol. & Med. 72: 365 (Nov.) 1949.

Wong, S. C. and Cox, H. R.: Action of Aureomycin Against Experimental Rickettsial and Viral Infections. Ann. New York Acad. Sci. 51: 290 (Nov. 30) 1948.

FRENCH   MOULT

This is a disease first discovered in the middle eighties, which seems to be confined to Shell Parrakeets, and almost entirely to young birds. It causes them to drop their flight and tail feathers either before or immediately after leaving the nest.

Some birds eventually grow them again, but more never do. The body feathering also is usually defective with contin­ual moulting, and the birds are undersized. These afflicted birds are also called "runners," as being unable to fly, they always run along the bottom of the cage and clamber along the netting.

This disease is said to be hereditary, although diet de­ficiencies predispose towards it also. Affected birds should not be used for breeding, and when purchasing Shell Par­rakeets, inquire into the past history of the birds regarding French Moult. Some authorities consider it a sex-linked affliction, because when mated among themselves or with a normally feathered mate, some of the young will be af­flicted while another brood will be normal. Much remains to be known about this disease, and no cure is known. Feed your birds a complete diet as recommended with a daily pinch of vitamin-mineral powder feed supplement, especially 2-3 months before and during the breeding season. The poor diet factor will at least be eliminated.
SEPTIC   ENTERITIS

This is a highly contagious intestinal disease caused by over-crowding and filthy unsanitary quarters, perches, and water receptacles. This applies to newly imported birds in a shipment as well as to a fancier's collection.

Symptoms exist when birds are inactive and quiet, with ruffled up feathers. The bird eats but is emaciated, and feels light when picked up.

When thus discovered, the bird should be immediately placed in a hospital cage with 85-90° temperature day and night. The cage or aviary should be sprayed or washed down with a strong solution of disinfectant. Feed and water re­ceptacles should be washed daily in hot water and washing soda. A pinch of either Epsom salts or sodium perborate may be given in the drinking water for 2-3 days. If you have a large breeding collection, your veterinarian may provide you with whichever of the sulfa drugs will treat this illness. Use a lye solution when cleaning your pens, replacing the birds only when thoroughly dry. This disease is another reason why you should quarantine newly purchased birds 3-4 weeks before placing them in your collection.

COLDS

Your bird has a cold because it is placed in a draft. A cheerful sunny window is a good spot if there isn't too much breeze, particularly on a cold day when the window should be closed.

Sick birds have ruffled plumage with the head often under the wing. It may be heard to sneeze and sniffle when breathing. A tiny blob of medicated petroleum jelly may be placed in the beak with a toothpick. With this same toothpick, apply a small amount of nose drops on each nostril. Place the bird immediately in your hospital cage at 85-90° for a week or two till cured. If you don't have this cage, keep the bird near, or if it isn't too hot, over the radiator. Another treatment is to cover the cage and allow the fumes from a hot teakettle's spout to enter from the bottom of the cage. A heated menthol ointment may be placed in the kettle with a little water. A new treatment is a drop from a liquid "Ana-hist" atomizer in the beak.

PNEUMONIA

An untreated cold may lead to pneumonia, the symptoms of which are the same as in a cold, except that the lungs are affected, and the bird gasps for breath. Penicillin ad­ministered by a veterinarian is the best cure. Carry the bird to him in your hospital cage, as it is imperative that it be kept at 85-90 degrees, and the veterinarian may not have a hospital cage for a bird.

FEATHER PLUCKING AND CARE OF PLUMAGE

Some Parrots are addicted to this bad habit. Some au­thorities claim that it is the lack of protein in the diet which causes the bird to crave for the taste of blood from its pin feathers, and suggest adding a little raw hamburger to a Parrot's diet to satisfy this need. A change of scenery is recommended, with a chance to fly if possible. Give the bird something to occupy itself with, such as a piece of a branch or block of wood.

It is best not to pull out a broken pinfeather, as a new one will be eventually sent out. If the feather is fully grown but defective, only then pull it out.

In the case of an ingrown pinfeather, which you will notice as a whitish lump in the wing where this occurs, an operation with a razor blade is called for. One or two persons will have to hold the bird, while you make an incision deep enough to reach the root of the feather. If the incision is made at the proper depth, the whole impacted feather may be easily withdrawn with a pair of tweezers. A few pieces of cotton dipped in alcohol will absorb the small amount of blood so you may see what you are doing. If you fail to make a deep enough incision, part of the feather may remain in the wing causing another swollen lump, and you will have to start all over again.

Broken or worn flight and tail feathers may be pulled out, and will be replaced within a month. Only 2 or 3 feathers may be pulled out at one time. Pulling out too many may start feather picking. When pulling out a wing feather, hold the wing firmly with the right hand at the base of the feath­er you are extracting, and pull the one feather out with a quick outward motion, so as not to hurt the wing.

Any bird may be started into preening its feathers by spraying with water in an atomizer. Some fanciers, when exhibiting at a bird show, put a few drops of glycerine in the water when spraying to give their birds a little sheen to the feathers. This isn't really necessary if your birds are on a good diet and in top condition.

EGG-BINDING

This trouble usually occurs in birds which are permitted to breed in cold weather. Love Birds, and Shell Parrakeets in particular, should have all nest boxes removed at the end of the breeding season or after the 2nd or 3rd brood is raised. Many commercial breeders separate the sexes, putting them in different flight pens at that time.

Egg-binding or difficult labor, is brought on by sudden changes in the weather when the hen is ready to lay, causing spasmodic contractions of the uterus which in turn makes passage of the egg difficult. This may occur in warm weather also, if a hen is laying her first egg. A main cause is starting the breeding season too early. In the New York latitude, it is better to start breeding operations in the middle of March at the earliest.

The symptoms of egg-binding are apparent when a hen is groggy in actions, and stays on the cage bottom straining to lay the egg. The egg may be felt by the lump in the abdo­men.

The best method for removal is to place a drop or two of olive oil in the vent, then hold the bird over steam arising from a pan or teakettle spout of hot water for a few minutes without scalding the bird; after which place the bird in its nest or in a heated hospital cage. If the egg is not passed in 20 minutes try the treatment again.

If you have skillful fingers and the egg still has not been ejected, it may be eased out by gentle pressure behind the egg. A few more drops of olive oil in the vent will make things easier.

CLAW   AND   BILL

A nail clipper is the best instrument to use for trimming the tip of the upper mandible when it grows too long. Clip along the sides of the upper mandible at the tip, leaving a point. If your Psittacine Bird was given a block of wood or piece of branch to exercise its bill on, this will be less of a problem.

Claws are trimmed with clippers by first holding each claw up to the light where you may see the vein in the claw, and where the tip is solid. Trim off at an angle at this point.

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